Betanzos by early grey morning. We had to get out to get some cash and thought we’d have breakfast somewhere nice, but in the end we just walked back to the Chocolateria.
Which was a good idea, it turns out, because when I asked for tomate on my tostada, the lady gave me a small tub, like the jam ones, with pulped tomato! She also put olive oil and salt in front of me and wished me a smiling Buen provecho. Wonderful! I decided to keep an eye out for these things in shops, they would be handy to have in the pack for al fresco lunching.
Then off we went, with only one pack between us, because we were going back to the same (but different) room again. Before we started on the serious uphill we wanted to buy some things for lunch, as there was fewer places to stop and have a sit-down meal. As it turned out we had to walk quite a bit in the wrong direction to get to a shop, which was a Gadis, and got some Aquarius and water there. We decided to try a corner panaderia for the food. And guess what – not only did they have lovely fresh soft bread (no sharp bocadillo crusts), jamon and local cheese, but they also had small tubs of tomato pulp with olive oil and garlic! Two very pleased peregrinas then walked out into the rain and started going uphill. This guy with a water tap for a hand showed the way.
Our plan was to walk as far as we got, at least to the Meson Museo Xente no Camino and possibly longer, and then taxi back to Betanzos. With only one light pack and a shorter day we were planning on doing our sightseeing and enjoy some evening, if not night, life as well. It was Saturday, after all. The sun came out at times, and we enjoyed a bus stop shelter lunch with the tomato pulp, which was brilliant stuff.
When we got to the Xente no Camino, which is lovely!, we soon decided that since the sun had come out, and since it was Saturday and also Day 3 – traditionally Pain Day when everything aches – we might as well have a drink there and get a taxi. So we did. We found out that they opened early the next day to serve the pilgrims staying at nearby albergue Presedo, so we’d taxi back the next morning, have breakfast and carry on.
Back in Betanzos we had our new room with bathroom, which was better, though the bathtub was still lethal. Then we donned our finery (scarf) and went out! The Medieval flags were flying here too, and the old town is beautiful. We sauntered around for a bit, decided against the Pasatiempos park, which you really should visit, and went to find food.
None of the main square restaurants felt right, but we found a small tapas bar down a steep side street which was empty when we arrived and heaving when we left. Incredibly good food, fantastic service and a very enjoyable albarinho again.
I could get used to this. However, it was time to pack up again and move on.