After a rather lovely breakfast of eggs and bacon at the Formiga, I hit the road at a leisurely pace. It was another lovely day for walking – not too hot, not too cold, not to sunny, not too windy, in fact just right. When I got to Palas de Rei, I sat down outside … More CF Sola 19, Day 10: Portos-Melide

When I woke up, the dorm was practically empty again. I had a chat to Helen in the bed next to me, a lovely bubbly lady who started in Sarria and was already loving it. We ended up having a coffee together before starting out, and kept each other company through the day. It was … More CF Sola 19, Day 9: Portomarin-Portos

How many favourite days can a pilgrim have? When I set out from St Jean in 2012, my companion had brought gold star stickers to mark her favourite days and ended up sticking them on each and every diary entry. That’s how the walk from Sarria feels. OK, so there might be more people on … More CF Sola 19, Day 8: Sarria-Portomarin

From Triacastela there are two paths to Sarria – one shorter, via San Xil, and one longer, via Samos, with its once incredibly powerful monastery which still hosts pilgrims in the old buildings. As you leave Triacastela you see these two markers (reasonably) clearly pointing out the two alternatives. Then as you get onto the … More CF Sola 19, Day 7: Triacastela-Sarria

Having a room instead of sleeping in an albergue meant I could wake up in my own time, nice and refreshed, and have a leisurely breakfast of café con leche and Santiago cake at my favourite table downstairs. Then it was off to find one of the two lovely green paths out of O Cebreiro, … More CF Sola 19, Day 6: O Cebreiro-Triacastela

Finally, the day of my subida favorita – my favourite uphill. Yogi and I went for a morning coffee, and who did we bump into but Piia! Suitably refreshed we started walking towards Herrerias at the bottom of the O Cebreiro climb. Walking at different speeds we agreed to meet at the last bar, by … More CF Sola 19, Day 5: Vega de Valcarce-O Cebreiro