What do you do when you wake up in Santiago and have nothing to do, nowhere to go, and can’t seem to get back to sleep after waking up at pilgrim o’clock? Well, if you’re staying in the Pinario, you can go down to the Obradoiro square just to see dawn changing the colour of … More CF21 Day 26 – Santiago
Here’s the thing, when you accept that there are alternative transport options, walking becomes a choice. I know there is a bus going straight into Santiago and where it stops (assuming it is still running), but even though the fog hung heavy and wet outside the windows when I woke up, I wanted to walk. … More CF21 Day 25 – Pedrouzo to Santiago!
When I woke up, there was only me and two other pilgrims left in the room, one of them was fast asleep. The other one and I got ready as quietly as we could in semi darkness until he woke up and we could put the light on. Turns out my fellow awake pilgrim had … More CF21 Day 24 – Arzua to Salceda and Pedrouzo
New day, new walk. I had decided to do my best for myself and the knee, meaning not giving up but also not overdoing it. I know this walk by now and was looking forward to a lovely bimble through forests and tiny villages, with a good few places to stop along the way. Hopefully … More CF21 Day 23 – Palas to Melide and Arzua
I suppose I should have planned for more half days or something, because when I woke up to thick, cold fog over Portomarin and got out of my bed, my knee complained with a loud and crunching noise. Seems the downhills the last couple of days had done more damage than I was aware of. … More CF21 Day 22 – Portomarin to Palas de Rei
And then I woke up in Sarria. The difference from one day to the next is gobsmacking, to put it mildly, though it shouldn’t surprise me anymore. The camino drag was heaving with fresh people on fresh legs, some of them still doing last minute purchases like clicking walking sticks. Many were in groups and … More CF21 Day 21 – Sarria to Portomarin
There are two roads out of Triacastela, and this time I was determined to take the other one, over Samos. But after meeting Art the night before, and with it being shorter… Well, I went for the San Xil option again. When I got to A Balsa and Art’s art gallery, the man himself was … More CF21 Day 20 – Triacastela to Sarria
There was no point in getting up too early the next morning as the temperatures were forecast to drop to single figures until at least an hour after sunrise. When I finally managed to leave my comfy and warm bed and made it downstairs to have breakfast, the Cutest Couple were there, which was a … More CF21 Day 19 – O Cebreiro to Triacastela
Anyone who knows me or my blog knows that this is the day I have been waiting for – the trail, the walk, the climb up to O Cebreiro! The first time I had heard such scare stories about it, about unfit people keeling over with heart attacks from sheer exhaustion. Which is of course … More CF21 Day 18 – Vega to O Cebreiro
I was late again leaving Villafranca, as it seemed cool and damp and the forecast was threatening rain later on. I remembered a café that opened early near the bridge leaving town, so I went there for a bit and dawdled with a pan au chocolat and the internet. There would be no Pradela route … More CF21 Day 17 – Villafranca to Vega de Valcarce
Love . travel . write . eat
My times on the Camino de Santiago
My new mystery/thriller novel Lost in the Fog is available to order now! With this blog I’m also chronicling the 4 months I spent wandering in France, Spain, Portugal, and the Caribbean in 2019. Mahalo for reading!
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