Camino Frances – Somewhere Slowly

Zen top-up: O Pedrouzo to Santiago

16/01/2023

Oh I could write about the first coffee on the last morning of a long and eventful walk, the last perfect flaky croissant; the way the golden morning light weaves into the quiet forests on the way and the feeling of being so close to the end and yet it is still so well hidden; … More Zen top-up: O Pedrouzo to Santiago

Zen top-up: Arzúa to O Pedrouzo

09/01/2023

When I woke up after a good night’s sleep, I was surprised to hear Scandinavian sulking. Turns out the two ladies in the opposite bunk bed to mine were from Sweden, and the one on the top was not amused by the height of her bed and the ladder based obstacle course first thing in … More Zen top-up: Arzúa to O Pedrouzo

Zen top-up: Melide to Arzúa

08/01/2023

Leaving Melide late and at a leisurely pace, my feet were feeling a lot better, and the weather was perfect for a short 15 km bimble to Arzúa. Most of the morning rush was already gone so for a while I had the trail to myself. I even found the snake … Not today, pal, today I … More Zen top-up: Melide to Arzúa

Zen top-up: Portos to Melide

07/01/2023

My French and Canadian room mates made an early start, and not too quietly, so I just stayed in bed and waited until the ruckus and rush for the bathroom had quietened down. There was no breakfast until seven or so, so no need to be out in the dark – which anyway I don’t … More Zen top-up: Portos to Melide

Zen top-up: Portomarín to Portos

06/01/2023

I didn’t even hear Nicole leaving next morning. When I woke up after a bad night’s sleep – dog barking like a loon outside our window – I was alone in the room. Outside the hall was full of suitcases to be transported, and the whole house was quiet. I considered having breakfast there since … More Zen top-up: Portomarín to Portos

Zen top-up: Sarria to Portomarín

05/01/2023

My last day in Nicole’s company. I had called the hospitalera in Portomarín and confirmed that we could share my twin room, it would cost €15 more but was totally worth it, as the whole town seemed to be bursting at the seams! I guess it is the Sarria Effect and that everybody stops there … More Zen top-up: Sarria to Portomarín

Zen top-up: Triacastela to Sarria

04/01/2023

Another bright, lovely and eventually very hot day started with a balanced pilgrim breakfast containing enough fat, dairy, sugar, caffeine and electrolytes to last me until second breakfast. Nicole would be on the trail already, though I had no idea if she’d chosen the longer route via the old Samos monastery or via San Xil, so … More Zen top-up: Triacastela to Sarria

Zen top-up: O Cebreiro to Triacastela

03/01/2023

The next morning we had breakfast in the Venta Celta, which is under new management, though still serves very good café con leche. It was a gorgeous morning, perfect for a lovely long walk down a hillside, and it would be getting warm so we had our coffee and got on our way. From the … More Zen top-up: O Cebreiro to Triacastela

Zen top-up: Villafranca to O Cebreiro

02/01/2023

Another late start; I was in no hurry, I had booked a room in O Cebreiro, and as luck or camino magic would have it, they only had a twin so I had a spare bed for a sudden camino companion. It’s only about a 10 km walk, but most of it is very much … More Zen top-up: Villafranca to O Cebreiro

Zen top-up: Villafranca to Vega de Valcarce

31/12/2022

The next day I took my time getting up, just kept turning around whenever a noise woke me, and when I finally got out of bed I noticed two things: Someone had left a bar of chocolate on the storage box by my bed (thank you, peregrina!), and I was alone. Yep, every single pilgrim … More Zen top-up: Villafranca to Vega de Valcarce