When I woke up, there was only me and two other pilgrims left in the room, one of them was fast asleep. The other one and I got ready as quietly as we could in semi darkness until he woke up and we could put the light on. Turns out my fellow awake pilgrim had … More CF21 Day 24 – Arzua to Salceda and Pedrouzo

There was no point in getting up too early the next morning as the temperatures were forecast to drop to single figures until at least an hour after sunrise. When I finally managed to leave my comfy and warm bed and made it downstairs to have breakfast, the Cutest Couple were there, which was a … More CF21 Day 19 – O Cebreiro to Triacastela

Anyone who knows me or my blog knows that this is the day I have been waiting for – the trail, the walk, the climb up to O Cebreiro! The first time I had heard such scare stories about it, about unfit people keeling over with heart attacks from sheer exhaustion. Which is of course … More CF21 Day 18 – Vega to O Cebreiro

I was late again leaving Villafranca, as it seemed cool and damp and the forecast was threatening rain later on. I remembered a café that opened early near the bridge leaving town, so I went there for a bit and dawdled with a pan au chocolat and the internet. There would be no Pradela route … More CF21 Day 17 – Villafranca to Vega de Valcarce

Walking through the vineyards from Camponaraya to Villafranca is one of the great joys of the camino for me, and the rain had passed for now, so yet again I took a slow lazy bimble soaking up the views and marvelling at all the wine to be. I stopped for a little chat with the … More CF21 Day 16 – Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

The weather was much better when I woke up, promising a blue sky and a fabulous walk down the still tricky trail towards Molinaseca. I had breakfast with other late pilgrims, including the Musicians from the night before, who seemed to be doing the same sort of distances I am. Then I slathered Gehwol on … More CF21 Day 15 – Acebo to Ponferrada