My little bed in my little room in my little hostal Bastide was lovely, so I woke up refreshed and took my time getting ready. When I was almost done, there were unmistakeable coffee making noises downstairs, so I ended up with the breakfast of champion pilgrims, a café con leche and a piece of Santiago cake consisting of almond flour, eggs and sugar… Good walking food (that’s my story and I am sticking to it!) Eventually it was time to get moving though I could happily have stayed there a good while longer.
Oh look. More senda. Crunch, crunch, crunch. Easy on the feet and I am sure I will miss it when I get to the hills and mountains. Doesn’t make my heart sing like the hills and mountains though.
The trail splits just before Bercianos, and I had a room booked in Burgo Ranero, so I chose the southern and less interesting route. In 2012 I took the longer and more scenic one, caught sight of Burgo from a distance and managed to cross the train tracks with the help of an elderly gentleman who told us the next train was in five minutes and pointed to a hole in the fence. When we got to Burgo we decided it was no place to stay so we walked on to Reliegos instead… So I have actually never walked to or stayed in Burgo before. I did have a break in Bercianos though and caught up with some regulars, some of whom were not habitual drinkers of rehydration drink and general refresher Aquarius, so I may have got them hooked. Sorry. (Not sorry.)
After Bercianos there were nearly 7 kms to Burgo, where David was already sitting in the first bar. As he would be moving on to Mansilla to catch a bus early the next morning, I crunched a bit faster to get there and spend some time with him before he left. An hour and a bit later I was sitting in the shade with him and a few others having an ankerbier and generally just chilling until time came for him to leave.
That evening a crowd of new and familiar people gathered in front of one of the few bar restaurants in tiny Burgo Ranero, and there were more beers and a pilgrim meal and then, under an ink black sky dotted with bright and twinkling stars, we wobbled back to our beds.