CF Sola 19, Day 11: Melide-Arzúa

Karen and I left semi early from our albergue in Melide, and it was shaping up to be another wonderfully sunny day. I took a photo of That Turning on the way out of Melide, also famously the cover of Mark McCarthy’s guidebook to the last part of the camino.

The path was – is – so pretty on this section, winding through shaded forests, crossing small streams, passing little bars and cafés. A thoroughly enjoyable walk was had.

I stopped at Ribadiso, as you do, to have a bowl of gorgeous lentejas, or black lentil soup, which they serve all year round. Many will have missed it after the meseta, so here’s your chance to get a refill!

In Arzúa I stayed in a new albergue (to me at least) where I was one of five pilgrims that night, and one of them was a boy of maybe 5-7 years old walking with his parents. The beds were arranged along the walls in two long corridors, and I had total control of the window opposite my bunk. Lockers too, what luxury!

In the evening I went to the churreria Furancho for the ribs, which I have had before, plus I like the decor! Karen met me there with another lady she had met along the way, and when a fourth peregrina sat down on the next table on her own, we invited her over. It turned into a very good night with many laughs, and we finished the evening with a night cap on the square under the beautiful trees. Still feels odd to have to go to bed while the Spanish kids are running around though, but she who wants a pleasant walk the next day has to retreat to her bunk early.


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