A camiga asked me if I had a packing list to share, and I kind of do, though they are getting a bit outdated. I realise that I mostly post un-packing lists these days, because I think it is more interesting to see, after the fact, what actually worked and not. This informs my next … More Updated packing list 2023
When we came back to Porto, staying in a very nice room on a busy street in the city centre, we wanted to make the most of our last night before we started walking. We had a late lunch and tiny planning session in a lovely place called The Happy Nest, which has a garden … More Camigas in Porto
Oh I could write about the first coffee on the last morning of a long and eventful walk, the last perfect flaky croissant; the way the golden morning light weaves into the quiet forests on the way and the feeling of being so close to the end and yet it is still so well hidden; … More Zen top-up: O Pedrouzo to Santiago
Another bright, lovely and eventually very hot day started with a balanced pilgrim breakfast containing enough fat, dairy, sugar, caffeine and electrolytes to last me until second breakfast. Nicole would be on the trail already, though I had no idea if she’d chosen the longer route via the old Samos monastery or via San Xil, so … More Zen top-up: Triacastela to Sarria
The next day I took my time getting up, just kept turning around whenever a noise woke me, and when I finally got out of bed I noticed two things: Someone had left a bar of chocolate on the storage box by my bed (thank you, peregrina!), and I was alone. Yep, every single pilgrim … More Zen top-up: Villafranca to Vega de Valcarce
The next morning I went downstairs for my first café con leche and whatever baked goods came with it. There was only one other person there, clearly of a pilgrim persuasion, so naturally a conversation ensued. The Breakfast Man, as I would call him, was from the USA and was having a gentle breakfast while … More Zen top-up: Ponferrada to Villafranca
Well if it isn’t *officially* Backpack Day, it should be. On this day, ten years ago (OMG is it really ten years) I got my Osprey Aura 35 delivered. Fresh from the outdoors shop, from Osprey’s new range, ventilated and panel loading and state of the art. Time was of the essence; in three days … More Happy Backpack Day!
My last day in Cologne. I started by leaving my backpack in the luggage storage at the hotel, then went downstairs to the restaurant – first customer of the day – to order a coffee and a salad for late breakfast. While I sat there, B sent me highlights of her day so far: Mine … More VC5: Last day in Cologne
I had come back to Cologne to rest, and that’s all I did: Rested. I got up late, kept my foot up while I considered my options and watched news on the TV (wish I hadn’t), then went downstairs for a coffee, but they weren’t open yet. And there was a huge demo on the … More VC4: Rest day in Cologne
Another day, another fabulous hotel breakfast buffet. I shall miss that! We treated ourselves to a huge meal and B also made a packed lunch. I decided I didn’t need a lunchbox lunch, as the train would only take an hour. I gave her my tiny salt and pepper shaker as a parting gift, the … More VC3: Back to Cologne
Somewhere Slowly 