When I woke up, there was only me and two other pilgrims left in the room, one of them was fast asleep. The other one and I got ready as quietly as we could in semi darkness until he woke up and we could put the light on. Turns out my fellow awake pilgrim had … More CF21 Day 24 – Arzua to Salceda and Pedrouzo
New day, new walk. I had decided to do my best for myself and the knee, meaning not giving up but also not overdoing it. I know this walk by now and was looking forward to a lovely bimble through forests and tiny villages, with a good few places to stop along the way. Hopefully … More CF21 Day 23 – Palas to Melide and Arzua
I suppose I should have planned for more half days or something, because when I woke up to thick, cold fog over Portomarin and got out of my bed, my knee complained with a loud and crunching noise. Seems the downhills the last couple of days had done more damage than I was aware of. … More CF21 Day 22 – Portomarin to Palas de Rei
And then I woke up in Sarria. The difference from one day to the next is gobsmacking, to put it mildly, though it shouldn’t surprise me anymore. The camino drag was heaving with fresh people on fresh legs, some of them still doing last minute purchases like clicking walking sticks. Many were in groups and … More CF21 Day 21 – Sarria to Portomarin
There are two roads out of Triacastela, and this time I was determined to take the other one, over Samos. But after meeting Art the night before, and with it being shorter… Well, I went for the San Xil option again. When I got to A Balsa and Art’s art gallery, the man himself was … More CF21 Day 20 – Triacastela to Sarria
There was no point in getting up too early the next morning as the temperatures were forecast to drop to single figures until at least an hour after sunrise. When I finally managed to leave my comfy and warm bed and made it downstairs to have breakfast, the Cutest Couple were there, which was a … More CF21 Day 19 – O Cebreiro to Triacastela
Anyone who knows me or my blog knows that this is the day I have been waiting for – the trail, the walk, the climb up to O Cebreiro! The first time I had heard such scare stories about it, about unfit people keeling over with heart attacks from sheer exhaustion. Which is of course … More CF21 Day 18 – Vega to O Cebreiro
I was late again leaving Villafranca, as it seemed cool and damp and the forecast was threatening rain later on. I remembered a café that opened early near the bridge leaving town, so I went there for a bit and dawdled with a pan au chocolat and the internet. There would be no Pradela route … More CF21 Day 17 – Villafranca to Vega de Valcarce
Walking through the vineyards from Camponaraya to Villafranca is one of the great joys of the camino for me, and the rain had passed for now, so yet again I took a slow lazy bimble soaking up the views and marvelling at all the wine to be. I stopped for a little chat with the … More CF21 Day 16 – Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo
The weather was much better when I woke up, promising a blue sky and a fabulous walk down the still tricky trail towards Molinaseca. I had breakfast with other late pilgrims, including the Musicians from the night before, who were also taking it easy and in no hurry to get to Santiago. Then I slathered … More CF21 Day 15 – Acebo to Ponferrada
Somewhere Slowly 