Oh I could write about the first coffee on the last morning of a long and eventful walk, the last perfect flaky croissant; the way the golden morning light weaves into the quiet forests on the way and the feeling of being so close to the end and yet it is still so well hidden; … More Zen top-up: O Pedrouzo to Santiago
When I woke up after a good night’s sleep, I was surprised to hear Scandinavian sulking. Turns out the two ladies in the opposite bunk bed to mine were from Sweden, and the one on the top was not amused by the height of her bed and the ladder based obstacle course first thing in … More Zen top-up: Arzúa to O Pedrouzo
Leaving Melide late and at a leisurely pace, my feet were feeling a lot better, and the weather was perfect for a short 15 km bimble to Arzúa. Most of the morning rush was already gone so for a while I had the trail to myself. I even found the snake … Not today, pal, today I … More Zen top-up: Melide to Arzúa
My French and Canadian room mates made an early start, and not too quietly, so I just stayed in bed and waited until the ruckus and rush for the bathroom had quietened down. There was no breakfast until seven or so, so no need to be out in the dark – which anyway I don’t … More Zen top-up: Portos to Melide
I didn’t even hear Nicole leaving next morning. When I woke up after a bad night’s sleep – dog barking like a loon outside our window – I was alone in the room. Outside the hall was full of suitcases to be transported, and the whole house was quiet. I considered having breakfast there since … More Zen top-up: Portomarín to Portos
My last day in Nicole’s company. I had called the hospitalera in Portomarín and confirmed that we could share my twin room, it would cost €15 more but was totally worth it, as the whole town seemed to be bursting at the seams! I guess it is the Sarria Effect and that everybody stops there … More Zen top-up: Sarria to Portomarín
Another bright, lovely and eventually very hot day started with a balanced pilgrim breakfast containing enough fat, dairy, sugar, caffeine and electrolytes to last me until second breakfast. Nicole would be on the trail already, though I had no idea if she’d chosen the longer route via the old Samos monastery or via San Xil, so … More Zen top-up: Triacastela to Sarria
The next day I took my time getting up, just kept turning around whenever a noise woke me, and when I finally got out of bed I noticed two things: Someone had left a bar of chocolate on the storage box by my bed (thank you, peregrina!), and I was alone. Yep, every single pilgrim … More Zen top-up: Villafranca to Vega de Valcarce
The next morning I went downstairs for my first café con leche and whatever baked goods came with it. There was only one other person there, clearly of a pilgrim persuasion, so naturally a conversation ensued. The Breakfast Man, as I would call him, was from the USA and was having a gentle breakfast while … More Zen top-up: Ponferrada to Villafranca
This is was supposed to be my walk with my Scouse Spouse from Ferrol to Santiago, and then out to Finisterre. Sadly though, he had to pass on it and I had the choice between staying at home or quickly rebooking my accommodation to suit one instead of two. As it was, I decided to … More Zen top-up: Liverpool to Ponferrada
Somewhere Slowly 