Another bright, lovely and eventually very hot day started with a balanced pilgrim breakfast containing enough fat, dairy, sugar, caffeine and electrolytes to last me until second breakfast. Nicole would be on the trail already, though I had no idea if she’d chosen the longer route via the old Samos monastery or via San Xil, so … More Zen top-up: Triacastela to Sarria
The next morning we had breakfast in the Venta Celta, which is under new management, though still serves very good café con leche. It was a gorgeous morning, perfect for a lovely long walk down a hillside, and it would be getting warm so we had our coffee and got on our way. From the … More Zen top-up: O Cebreiro to Triacastela
Another late start; I was in no hurry, I had booked a room in O Cebreiro, and as luck or camino magic would have it, they only had a twin so I had a spare bed for a sudden camino companion. It’s only about a 10 km walk, but most of it is very much … More Zen top-up: Villafranca to O Cebreiro
The next day I took my time getting up, just kept turning around whenever a noise woke me, and when I finally got out of bed I noticed two things: Someone had left a bar of chocolate on the storage box by my bed (thank you, peregrina!), and I was alone. Yep, every single pilgrim … More Zen top-up: Villafranca to Vega de Valcarce
The next morning I went downstairs for my first café con leche and whatever baked goods came with it. There was only one other person there, clearly of a pilgrim persuasion, so naturally a conversation ensued. The Breakfast Man, as I would call him, was from the USA and was having a gentle breakfast while … More Zen top-up: Ponferrada to Villafranca
This is was supposed to be my walk with my Scouse Spouse from Ferrol to Santiago, and then out to Finisterre. Sadly though, he had to pass on it and I had the choice between staying at home or quickly rebooking my accommodation to suit one instead of two. As it was, I decided to … More Zen top-up: Liverpool to Ponferrada
The time has come. The kit box has been lifted onto the table and rummaged through, and two things hit me: I am so underprepared for this walk. These walks. I need to find my smallest and most lightweight things. And: This is a mess. How am I going to find anything small and lightweight … More Packing up and counting down
What do you do when you wake up in Santiago and have nothing to do, nowhere to go, and can’t seem to get back to sleep after waking up at pilgrim o’clock? Well, if you’re staying in the Pinario, you can go down to the Obradoiro square just to see dawn changing the colour of … More CF21 Day 26 – Santiago
Here’s the thing, when you accept that there are alternative transport options, walking becomes a choice. I know there is a bus going straight into Santiago and where it stops (assuming it is still running), but even though the fog hung heavy and wet outside the windows when I woke up, I wanted to walk. … More CF21 Day 25 – Pedrouzo to Santiago!
When I woke up, there was only me and two other pilgrims left in the room, one of them was fast asleep. The other one and I got ready as quietly as we could in semi darkness until he woke up and we could put the light on. Turns out my fellow awake pilgrim had … More CF21 Day 24 – Arzua to Salceda and Pedrouzo
Somewhere Slowly 