What a relief to wake up and feel well! We were planning on an early getaway this morning to beat the heat, also because the trail, a senda-like gravel path next to the road, would be relatively easy to walk even in the dark and dusk. We were up and out before sunrise, which doesn’t … More CF Day 18 – Reliegos to León
But it wasn’t over. It seemed the camino flu had rested too, and now it returned with a vengeance! I woke up in a cold sweat at stupid early in the morning, with a blistering headache and a dreadful feeling that something was seriously wrong. I tried to drink water but couldn’t hold it down, … More CF Day 17 – Sahagún to Reliegos
After a quick breakfast of café con leche, Aquarius and some bread and jamón, we made our way out in the dusk. I did feel better, though not great, and attributed it to going more or less without food for two days and having the camino flu. I loved being back on the road again … More CF Day 16 – Ledigos to Sahagún
After a mostly sleepless night, spent mostly in the bathroom, I knew for certain that I was not well. Camino flu, albergue fever, whatever you call it (like norovirus), I had it. No way could I manage 17 kms with no place to rest and no facilities. The Scouse Spouse went off into the dusk … More CF Day 15 – Carrion to Ledigos
I really don’t like walking in the dark. In the dusk I can do, so I can see my shadow slowly forming in front of me and try in vain to photograph the sunrise, but not in the dark, when you can’t see the ground or the landscape. Don’t like walking by flashlight either. But … More CF Day 14 – Boadilla to Carrion de los Condes
Doesn’t look too bad, does it? But as you get closer, you see how steep it is. Nothing else for it than to get up and over it though – we told ourselves the views would be good up there and powered on. And as expected, the views were wonderful! I kept stopping and turning … More CF Day 13 – Castrojeriz to Boadilla
We like to think we live and learn. And so it was that the morning after we left Hornillos early and at speed, to beat the heat. I hate the thought of hurrying or trying to beat anything on the camino, but it just got too hot for us in the afternoons and we seemed … More CF Day 12 – Hornillos to Castrojeriz
We were not happy bunnies on the morning we had to leave lovely Burgos. Not at all. We managed to get a table by the window on the square overlooking the cathedral and had breakfast while discussing when to come back (soon) and how long to stay for (as long as possible). In the end … More CF Day 11 – Burgos to Hornillos
Plan: Sleep in – check Visit cathedral – nope (queue too long) Visit museum of Human Evolution – eer … look, sunny square! Find tapas street for a meal – check Buy umbrella to shade from the sun on the meseta – check (purple) Drift around Burgos-watching – check Take lots of lovely photos to … More CF Day 10 – Burgos rest day
Our goal for the day wasn’t just getting to Burgos, but finding the elusive River Route there! In 2012 I missed the turn and ended up walking along the unpleasant tarmac road around the airport, with no shade and no real shoulder to walk on. This time would be different. The Scouse Spouse was on … More CF Day 9 – Atapuerca to Burgos
Somewhere Slowly 