Leaving our lovely little compact flat in the morning we debated going back to the headland one more time, but decided to try to find breakfast and get out of town sooner rather than later as there was some debate about whether or not the cafés on the route would be open.
What a glorious morning it was though! Honestly the photos look good (if I say so myself) but the reality was even more stunning. I was impressed by the small patches of what seemed to be vegetable gardens edged with stone walls, I guess to stop the good soil from being washed or blown away. And the sheer amount of cala lilies just growing wild everywhere, even in the salty earth.
And yes, there are hills. They are long, but not too steep, and take you slowly, steadily, up from sea level up to the wind turbines on the hill top. And it’s no easier for the walkers coming the other way – they have also huffed and puffed their way up their hill and are happy to see the ocean below them as they pass. The fellow walkers coming the opposite way also told us which cafés were open and not, so we knew we would get to stop for a nice Aquarius break not long after the hill.
It was such a good day, walking through lush green tree tunnels, enjoying valley views, briefly chatting to people going our way or crossing our path and then passing by.
And then suddenly, there was Lires – a little village with a wealth of albergues, private rooms, and restaurants for its size, half way between Muxia and Finisterre. We checked into Liresca, where our twin room turned out to have one huge double bed – it was Nanci’s turn – and two single beds tucked into a deep alcove on the other side of the balcony door. Yes, we had a balcony too!
I really like these small places with bedrooms upstairs and good food downstairs and everyone sharing tables and stories, and the Liresca was a good example. We were joined by a lady who had walked one camino a year, solo, since she turned 50 and that was now some time ago. She had a wealth of stories and knowledge and information which she shared with us over a lovely dinner.
After the osso bucco and the nightcap there was only one uncharted walking day left to Finisterre, where we had been before and where the walk would end this time. 14 brand new and unexplored kilometres to go!
Somewhere Slowly 