We got a taxi back to the Meson Museo for breakfast – croissants smelt lovely but toast with tomato is more sensible, so we got one of each and shared …
Half way, in Beche, there is now a fabulous rest and recreational stop for pilgrims and locals, with café, toilets, picnic benches, even a swimming pool by the lake! It was threatening rain though so we soldiered on along fresh and fragrant forest paths and rural lanes.
The hills rose gently towards the highest point for the day and then, less than a km later and just before the rain bucketed down – the legendary Casa Avelina. The lady running ot is an absolute star, so warm and caring to all who come in, offering little stools for tired legs, little sweet and/or savoury snacks for hungry walkers, fetching a hat stand to hang wet ponchos, posing for endless photos and making sure everyone in her bar are well cared for and feel at home.
After the best bocadillo I can remember, with creamy cheese, salty salami and a drizzle of deliciously peppery olive oil, we called our hotel, which is slightly off route and offers a pick-up service. The drive took only a few minutes, but as we got closer, it looked like smoke was billowing out of the hotel…
No problem, said the man, there is just a fire in the bar. And there was, a big fire pit with a huge log in it … but the place was thick with smoke and the receptionist called the fire service to be on the safe side, so we left as soon as we had arrived and went to another café across the road. They also had rooms, and when the fire truck arrived at our original hotel, we booked a room in the other.
The fire brigade dealt with it very quickly, no one was hurt and nothing was damaged. Our host called to say he had covered the cost of the new room and I got my money back. The Peruvian ladies running our new home for the night were so sweet and helpful, and the cook made a very tasty chicken a la plancha. When life gives you lemons, make lemonade – or limoncello! You really meet some incredibly generous and helpful people on the way. If only the weather would be as kind … the forecast is for more cold and wet, but in Galicia – who knows.
Somewhere Slowly 