Camino Inglés day 3 – Pontedeume to Miño

When we woke up and took the cases down the next day, hoping to have a leisurely hotel breakfast before sauntering off towards Miño, it seemed that the hotel breakfast room was all reserved for a large group of Spanish walkers, so we had a quick café con leche in the cafeteria next door instead. Then we went off in search of photogenic sites and sights and a breakfast of some sort.

Oh, and stamps! It can be tricky to get enough sellos in the credencial when you walk short distances, so we nipped into the Municipal office for one. On the way out we almost collided with the British couple I had run into yesterday, first at lunch and then in the evening. and they told us that the cafe right by where we stood had toast with tomato pulp and olive oil, and even ham and cheese on top. Breakfast saved, we waved them off and went to eat.

Then on to the important business of the day: Uphill walking. We came across he river, stayed in the hotel by the river, now we were starting by the river and climbing steeply up, up, up. We visited the Santiago church to soften the uphillage, only to find it closed, so no violent Matamoros statue for us.

I named this stage Camel Day as there are two clear uphills and two downhills, one steep and one soft of each. They get your pulse up but are no problem as long as you go at your own pace.

There would be no cafés along the way so we brought Aquarius, aka Pilgrim Juice, and some Campesina crisps for salt and nutrients. There would be a rest stop, but we counted 5 all in all! And we found a golf club which also serves dusty wanderers – but not on Mondays, so we just took advantage of the facilities and carried on our way.

The trail was green, quiet, pleasant, easy to follow, and though it was a short day the hills made up for it. Day 3 is traditionally Pain Day, when everything aches, so it was good to have a short stage. If it gets too bad and you should feel like you could use some retail therapy, there are donativo trinket shops in the woods with an honesty box! And it looks like there is a new large café being prepared for summer season just a few kms outside of Miño which will be a welcome addition to a stage with no amenities on the map.

Finally we rolled into Miño, which turned out to be a lot bigger than I imagined. Our hotel would be near the beach and on the camino, but it was approaching the kitchen cut-off time so we sat down at a little eatery just 50m from the hotel and ordered a large salad and some raxo, marinated and pan fried pork cubes perfectly seasoned. Then on to the room, which is great with sea views, fabulous shower and a lovely hostess. And being the intrepid adventurers we are, we headed out post shower to find the beach!

The wind had picked up and there was a chill in the air from the cooler weather looming, but we forged ahead in the cold with sandals and hoodies and found not one, but two beaches! Took a walk, got our toes wet, got some photos, went for a drink to thaw out and then back into town for a shared pizza for our evening meal.

And now we are fed and tired and finally warm and planning our walk to Betanzos tomorrow. The cold and rain are on their way, so we have the layers at the ready and keeping our fingers crossed that the forecast will change.