Once again we set off from the Parador, and met our NW English friends again at breakfast, eager to get going. We had decided to get a taxi not back to Neda, where we left off, but to the monastery we walked past yesterday to take the path next to the train tracks across the estuary. Once on the other side there would be two routes, according to my Brierley guide book, and we wanted to walk the one closest to the water on the way into Fene.
Last time I walked to Fene and Pontedeume, I took the short route across the other bridge, which was practical and quick, but not particularly scenic. So off we went on the trail following the tracks, and once on the other side we tried to find the Bar TBO, which the gentleman we asked seemed to never have heard of, even though we were standing 20 metres away. Then as we spotted it, not only was it closed but we were stuck on the pavement as 10, 20, 40, who knows how many Spanish people came walking down the road, clearly off on an organised wander. We hung back a bit to let them pass, and it turns out they were crossing the bridge the other way. The coast/camino was clear!
We started by following the Brierley alternative route instructions to cross the track at the train station, along with several joggers and cyclists. Then a gentle, green path led us towards the water and Fene.
But at some point we got moderately lost – as did a British couple we met later in the day – so though it sounds like a great idea, as it’s not signposted or marked, I’d say it’s better to stick to the official route. You meet more people too! We used Google maps and Wise Pilgrim app to find the official route from our position and navigate up into Fene and back on the signposted trail. No problem.
At the top-ish of the hill, at the Vila do Colo restaurant, we had a spot of lunch and a good read of the guidebook to make sure we could find the ‘old’ route which was rerouted in 2017. Our Brierley guidebook seemed very dismissive of this rerouted walk and recommended the ‘old’ route, while the Village to Village and Wise Pilgrim app didn’t even mention it. I walked that way in 2009 and wanted to try to find the trail ending up on the Magdalena beach again. So we thought we’d give it a go, and managed to find our way with some hints, some old arrows and a young couple going for a Sunday stroll (or possibly a date?). We were told the ‘new’ route would be too close to the main roads and have dangerous crossings, so we were very happy to follow tiny tracks and trails and finally ended up where we wanted to be – on the beach.
After a quick drink while beach gazing, we went into town and checked into our hotel.
Then off to hunt for food … which was very difficult on a Sunday, let alone before eight in the evening. We sauntered around for a while and then, as we walked down a narrow lane to get to the next square, a lady held our gaze as she unlocked a door – she would open in five minutes! We sat down at the chairs outside and browsed the menu, which seemed to have everything we wanted: Albondegas (meatballs), zamburiñas and shrimp. So we happily took our hard wooden seats in the tiny Taberna Zas and ordered. The meatballs were lovely, the shrimp tiny, the zamburiñas in a sauce and not the shell, and I got a touch of gluttony and ordered a tapa of zorza as well – pork fillet marinated in pimenton, garlic and parsley. It was all lovely, and we were very pleased when we rolled out of there having found a little gem.
Then I sat down to write my daily blog, and ended up chatting to the British couple I met at lunch, which was lovely. With our short stages we probably won’t run into them again so I’ll just wish them a buen camino and wait for the addiction to hit them too – one day I’ll be coming around a corner and there they are.
Somewhere Slowly 